Sketches from the Raincoast - vol. 1

 A selection of the first 5 days work as promised.








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Day 2 - Teakern Arm

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  I’m lying here in the V berth listening to the rain patter on the deck above me with the waterfall roaring softly in the distance.     For the first time visiting Teakern, I’ve been able to secure the coveted anchorage in front of the falls albeit with a difficult anchoring where we had two attempts to set the hook at a 4:1 scope at the top of a drop-off that slopes to 100 feet combined with a stern tie to a small but sturdy tree which involved a climb up a rocky oyster and barnacle infested ledge. We’re all elated and exhausted after quite a challenging day. We went to sleep yesterday anticipating a rough night from the storm but we woke to relatively light winds and clearing skies and what we thought was a good sign, a beautiful half rainbow over the western part of the bay.  We weighed anchor at 9 after Roman got his first trial loaf of Sourdough underway for the needed 6 hours of proof.    Nosing out of Pender Harbour we could see the whitecaps in the...
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Day 3 - The Five Gates and the 3 F’s

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We departed Teakern at 9am sharp after an uneventful retrieval of the stern tie and a breakfast of eggs, toasted sourdough and Grandma Junie’s jam made from her raspberries. We were aiming for the 11:30am slack window at Dent Rapids.  Approaching Yuculta Rapids the turn was still underway as we passed the world famous Sonora fishing resort and we saw some good eddies and whirlpools.  Making the turn to port, we were outrun by a small flotilla of Grady Whites heading out for the day’s fishing.  Passing through Devils Hole was uneventful as were the remaining three rapids at Arran, Green Point with only Whirpool Rapids giving is a bit of a thrill with the turn starting as we transited. Aiming  for slack at Dent was definitely the way to go if you’re headed this way. Despite the forecast calling for westerlies, they will be light so I decided to tuck into a small bay called Bessborough before we head into Johnstone Straight tommorrow for the Broughtons.  After anch...
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Day 9 - Waterfalls and Grizzlies

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  We departed late from our anchorage to a sliver of sunshine on the horizon.     We’ve started to develop the habit of weighing anchor and eating breakfast as we go, with the waters so calm there’s no danger of the coffee pot flying around. I made the decision to go through Reid passage which was calmer as we could start to feel the pacific wells from milbank sound.     The navigation was tricky with some good tidal flow and lots of shoals and rocks but peaceful waters and great scenery.   We made our way into Mathieson Channel and threaded through narrow Jackson Pass, with less than 20 feet clearance in some parts but a beautiful way to enter Finalyson Channel which was a short run to Klemtu.    The community is still closed to visitors due to the pandemic but we were given the ok to fill up on water.    We have enough fuel to make it to Rupert so water is all we needed.   We continued up Tolmie channel in a light southeast w...
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