Day 2 - Teakern Arm

 I’m lying here in the V berth listening to the rain patter on the deck above me with the waterfall roaring softly in the distance.  

For the first time visiting Teakern, I’ve been able to secure the coveted anchorage in front of the falls albeit with a difficult anchoring where we had two attempts to set the hook at a 4:1 scope at the top of a drop-off that slopes to 100 feet combined with a stern tie to a small but sturdy tree which involved a climb up a rocky oyster and barnacle infested ledge.

We’re all elated and exhausted after quite a challenging day. We went to sleep yesterday anticipating a rough night from the storm but we woke to relatively light winds and clearing skies and what we thought was a good sign, a beautiful half rainbow over the western part of the bay. 

We weighed anchor at 9 after Roman got his first trial loaf of Sourdough underway for the needed 6 hours of proof.  Nosing out of Pender Harbour we could see the whitecaps in the straight so we could tell we were headed into some trouble.  Last nights storm was clearly late. Malaspina straight which is normally calm and sheltered from the worst was roiling with 3-5 foot waves that came at us from the port side, necessitating a series of starboard tacks to keep the waves aft to minimize the snap rolling with occasional left turns into the full force of the waves to maintain course.  

Malaspina straight was named in 1859 by Captain Richards of her majesty’s surveying vessel Plumper, after Captain Alexandro Malaspina, the Italian seaman.  Captain Vancouver states that the Spanish name of this straight was “Canal del Neustra Signora del Rosario” and that it was ten leagues in length from point Upward to Point Marshall. In Spanish Charts of 1791 and 1792, the entirety of what is now known as Georgia Straight or the Salish Sea was named as Malaspina.  Excerpt from British Columbia Coast Names, Captain John T. Walbran. (c) 1971 J.J.Douglas Ltd. 

Roman and Patti had a great attitude that this was just part of the adventure and rolled with it (at least until Roman found out that he was sitting in the “wet” seat that would get a good dousing of sea spray every left turn into the full force of the wind and waves….he soon relocated to Patti’s side but alas I had no such opportunity and proceeded to get soaked by spray as we made our way up the straight in a zig zag fashion for the next 3 hours, our lack of progress compensated by the fact I was able to “surf” the following sea by matching the waves speed and using them to speed up to 15 knots for brief periods.

The waves were starting to diminish by the time we reached Powell River with Grief point blocking the Southeaster. We went and got up close with the breakwater for the pulp mill that was constructed from lashing a number of World War II troop or transport ships together at anchor. Curiously the ships have been covered in a thin layer of concrete which is now spalling in a number of places exposing the rebar and metal mesh.  The rusting hulks made quite a sight and I’m sure these ships will show up in a future sketch of the day but we’ll have to wait and see.

The seas had finally calmed down passing the end of Texada so we managed to get the cabin cleaned up and make sandwiches with the egg salad I had prepared at breakfast. In the violent rolling and rocking, the salon table had fallen over and all of the cushions on the couch and the food had found their way into various corners.  Despite the rough ride, Roman and Patti had a great attitude and are taking it in stride as part of the adventure they have agreed to participate in.  Neither had any issues with sea sickness so either the acupressure bracelets are working or they are getting their sea legs.  I told them today was just about as bad as it gets so they feel they can handle anything now. 

A decision to take the inside channel after Lund led to our first encounter with Orcas on the trip, 3 adults and 2 calves which followed us less than 30m away as we slowed the boat to a crawl.  We got some great video and stills which I’ve included below.  

After our challenging anchoring, we hopped in the skiff for a quick trip over to the dingy dock for a quick hike to the lake that feeds the falls.  The lake was just as beautiful and peaceful as always and in better weather we would have taken our suits for a refreshing dip.  On our return, the stern line had somehow found its way under the boat.  …and of course was hung on on the running gear. 

There was no choice but to loosen up an end and re-tie which resulted in the further misadventure of getting the line wrapped in the prop of the skiff as I brought it back to the boat. I seem to enjoy finding more challenges at the end of a long day….at one point I overheard patti say to Roman, “we’ve got a situation here” as I bobbed in the back of the skiff trying to untangle the line from the prop and I had the engine cover off to loosen the pull cord to get the engine to crank. After 10 minutes I managed to get the engine to start but by this time the boat had drifted too far away to reach so I had to gun the skiff engine to drag the line back so Patti could grab it and we both hauled her back into place….back on board bleeding in a few new places I was grateful for the ice cold corona handed to me.

After another amazing gourmet dinner of PCC (Petroleum Club Caesar) salad, pasta, chicken with olives and tomatoes and red wine set to an amazing view of the rushing waterfall outside the salon window, Roman put the finishing touches on the Sourdough and got it in the oven….success!  Fresh bread tommorrow.  

We all headed off to bed early as we have a date with the rapids at 11:33am to hit the turn of the tide at Dent Rapids. The forecast assures that sunny days are on the way (or at least no more rain).