Day 18 - Bottleneck

Safe and secure on the mooring buoy all night with rainfall on and off pattering on the deck, the clouds cleared in the morning and we noticed that the fishing boat was gone from the dock.  We had decided last night that we were going to head over to the hot spring for a final dip and this was our opportunity to tie up without having to skiff over so we untied from the buoy and headed over to the dock.


The small 20 foot boat that we saw anchored on the edge of the bay last night was still there with camping stuff piled on the dock.  Turns out they had experienced an overheated water pump which had caused a fire in their engine.  They were now on a 25 horse kicker headed back to Kitimat, 42nm away. We chatted about our shared experience of having to use our fire extinguishers for the first time and I asked them if they needed gas and to check in with the coast guard every hour.  They looked rough as this was day 5 of a fishing trip that had taken them down to Fish Egg inlet and the accident had happened earlier today on their last leg home.


We had the dock to ourselves and headed up for a final long soak in the amazing hot springs.  We all signed some Kona Kai flotsam with the date and brought it to add to the collection hanging from the rafters.  Heaven on earth again, what a magical spot. 


Off the dock by 845am we’re headed out of Bishop onto Tolmie channel, the water like glass, making 11 knots on the ebb tide.  Majestic mountains are all  around us again as we recall that we are in “waterfall alley” as one beautiful example follows another as we make our way down the narrow channel, devoid of boat traffic again other than a 70 foot US Krogen long range trawler flying the quarantine flag. 


We reached Keikish Narrows at full flood but didn’t have any real troubles as this was only 2.8knts against us.  Midway through, we could see the channel marker had some sea lions but the amount of them piled around a large male was a sight to see, Roman counted 7 females plus the male, quite a large harem as I pulled a u turn to get a better look.  The day was rainy and cloudy to the deck again so any wildlife viewing was worth a second look. 


We got into the aptly named Bottleneck Inlet on schedule at around 2:30 and anchored in 28 feet of water at the far end.  I don’t think I’ve ever been in a more protected little spot, it could blow 30 and you wouldn’t know, the inlet is like a little cucoon and as usual, we have to completely to ourselves.  


Our biorhythms are adjusting to the rhythms of boat life and the weather and we all collectively seemed to make a decision that it was nap time.  The quiet inlet punctuated by the sound of the birds, the pattering rain, the mist and the long rainy run dodging logs did a number on us.  3 hours later we woke to sunshine; a crib game on the upper deck ensued in blissful heated comfort as the sun warmed us; also good timing as we have to use the barbecue to cook now, my error in thinking that I had a extra large tank (we ran out yesterday). We can get everything in the megalopolis of Shearwater that we desire but it is challenging our chef’s ability to use different implements to cook our wonderful dinners.


We are all learning how to manage our batteries without the genset and it’s forcing us to realize how much this boat is our life support system akin to a spaceship; like space, the water is a hostile place, help is not close at hand, we have to maintain it’s mechanical and electrical systems for our lives not to be at risk, we have to manage a limited supply of water and power and most choose when and  how to use it wisely (for example choosing to do the dishes when we are underway tommorrow instead of tonight). We can compost and recycle like we do in our house but we must find somewhere to dispose of our waste.  I assume the space station is the same way and garbage leaves via re supply from Elon. 


People compare a water trip like this to an RV trip on land which in a lot of ways it is, but the water is an added element of challenge. You are also a lot closer to the elements traveling on the water; rain and wind and sea spray on your face; than when travelling in a large vehicle hurtling down the highway at 100 km/hr.


Roman and I are looking forward to Shearwater tomorrow, Patti not so much as I think she likes the solitude and our self sufficiency but I think all will be good, part of the rhythm of the trip. 


5.5 hours running, 231L used, 420L in main tanks, 10 hours of range.








Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Day 2 - Teakern Arm

Image
  I’m lying here in the V berth listening to the rain patter on the deck above me with the waterfall roaring softly in the distance.     For the first time visiting Teakern, I’ve been able to secure the coveted anchorage in front of the falls albeit with a difficult anchoring where we had two attempts to set the hook at a 4:1 scope at the top of a drop-off that slopes to 100 feet combined with a stern tie to a small but sturdy tree which involved a climb up a rocky oyster and barnacle infested ledge. We’re all elated and exhausted after quite a challenging day. We went to sleep yesterday anticipating a rough night from the storm but we woke to relatively light winds and clearing skies and what we thought was a good sign, a beautiful half rainbow over the western part of the bay.  We weighed anchor at 9 after Roman got his first trial loaf of Sourdough underway for the needed 6 hours of proof.    Nosing out of Pender Harbour we could see the whitecaps in the straight so we could tell we
Read more

Day 3 - The Five Gates and the 3 F’s

Image
We departed Teakern at 9am sharp after an uneventful retrieval of the stern tie and a breakfast of eggs, toasted sourdough and Grandma Junie’s jam made from her raspberries. We were aiming for the 11:30am slack window at Dent Rapids.  Approaching Yuculta Rapids the turn was still underway as we passed the world famous Sonora fishing resort and we saw some good eddies and whirlpools.  Making the turn to port, we were outrun by a small flotilla of Grady Whites heading out for the day’s fishing.  Passing through Devils Hole was uneventful as were the remaining three rapids at Arran, Green Point with only Whirpool Rapids giving is a bit of a thrill with the turn starting as we transited. Aiming  for slack at Dent was definitely the way to go if you’re headed this way. Despite the forecast calling for westerlies, they will be light so I decided to tuck into a small bay called Bessborough before we head into Johnstone Straight tommorrow for the Broughtons.  After anchoring in 25 feet of wate
Read more

Epilogue - The Places we have been

Image
Well it’s our last night and I’ve chosen the tightest little anchorage on the coast, Frenchman’s Cove just around the point for our run down the Straight back to home port.  We’ve had our last supper and a full moon is lighting up the cove as everyone gets a turn on YouTube music to choose an artist and a song.  Our run of the rapids was a bit more edgy than the run in but we made it through without incident.  The whale bell was rung on the way down Agamemnon Channel with 3 orcas on our port side and we spent a delightful day on the beach on Thormanby island. A great way to end the trip.  I’ll never forget Patti on the dock at Bishop’s Bay directing traffic and access to the hot tub between Vietnamese fisherman, drunken fishermen and water taxi passengers  Although we haven’t solved any of the worlds problem’s on this trip, the people we have met have given us hope, Brady who is willing to spend months on his boat as a ranger for the Kitsoo band to protect the Grizzlies of Khutze inlet
Read more