Sketches from the Raincoast - Vol. 3

 








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Day 3 - The Five Gates and the 3 F’s

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We departed Teakern at 9am sharp after an uneventful retrieval of the stern tie and a breakfast of eggs, toasted sourdough and Grandma Junie’s jam made from her raspberries. We were aiming for the 11:30am slack window at Dent Rapids.  Approaching Yuculta Rapids the turn was still underway as we passed the world famous Sonora fishing resort and we saw some good eddies and whirlpools.  Making the turn to port, we were outrun by a small flotilla of Grady Whites heading out for the day’s fishing.  Passing through Devils Hole was uneventful as were the remaining three rapids at Arran, Green Point with only Whirpool Rapids giving is a bit of a thrill with the turn starting as we transited. Aiming  for slack at Dent was definitely the way to go if you’re headed this way. Despite the forecast calling for westerlies, they will be light so I decided to tuck into a small bay called Bessborough before we head into Johnstone Straight tommorrow for the Broughtons.  After anch...
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Day 2 - Teakern Arm

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  I’m lying here in the V berth listening to the rain patter on the deck above me with the waterfall roaring softly in the distance.     For the first time visiting Teakern, I’ve been able to secure the coveted anchorage in front of the falls albeit with a difficult anchoring where we had two attempts to set the hook at a 4:1 scope at the top of a drop-off that slopes to 100 feet combined with a stern tie to a small but sturdy tree which involved a climb up a rocky oyster and barnacle infested ledge. We’re all elated and exhausted after quite a challenging day. We went to sleep yesterday anticipating a rough night from the storm but we woke to relatively light winds and clearing skies and what we thought was a good sign, a beautiful half rainbow over the western part of the bay.  We weighed anchor at 9 after Roman got his first trial loaf of Sourdough underway for the needed 6 hours of proof.    Nosing out of Pender Harbour we could see the whitecaps in the...
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Epilogue - The Places we have been

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Well it’s our last night and I’ve chosen the tightest little anchorage on the coast, Frenchman’s Cove just around the point for our run down the Straight back to home port.  We’ve had our last supper and a full moon is lighting up the cove as everyone gets a turn on YouTube music to choose an artist and a song.  Our run of the rapids was a bit more edgy than the run in but we made it through without incident.  The whale bell was rung on the way down Agamemnon Channel with 3 orcas on our port side and we spent a delightful day on the beach on Thormanby island. A great way to end the trip.  I’ll never forget Patti on the dock at Bishop’s Bay directing traffic and access to the hot tub between Vietnamese fisherman, drunken fishermen and water taxi passengers  Although we haven’t solved any of the worlds problem’s on this trip, the people we have met have given us hope, Brady who is willing to spend months on his boat as a ranger for the Kitsoo band to protect the G...
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