Day 20 - Paradise Found

We left Shearwater at a quarter to 10 in bright sunshine after fuelling up with 860L of diesel, filling the water tanks and replenishing the depleted chocolate provisions.  It felt good to be fully restocked. We passed New Bella Bella on our starboard side heading into Lama Passage to begin threading our way through the McNoughton and Spider Island groups of islands as I had seen the name of this amazing narrow channel called Spitfire passage that I felt compelled to find.  The course plotter was unreadable due to the number of turns I had to plan to avoid rocks. After traversing Lama and Hunter Passages, we entered protected calm lake-like waters dotted with small islands In every direction.  The islands were rugged with stunted wind-blown trees and rocky edges with steep drop-offs highlighted in places by the iridescent green of seaweed that we found out is the same species used in the dried Nori that we eat in our favourite sushi.  


Our run involved some time exposed to the open ocean of Queens Sound before heading back into the protected maze of islands that form the protected area.    The seas were calm with some bigger swells but didn’t pose any issues as we rounded Superstition Point and made our way down into Spider Channel where we entered the narrow entrance passage into Spitfire passage.  We slowed down to 7 knots as the passage had numerous rocks and shoals that involved many turns to navigate safely.  We missed the narrow channel that marked the midway point of the passage but re-tracing our steps  to the channel it was clear that this was not a good idea to attempt it as we advanced slowly forward with Roman on the bow looking for rocks the channel was getting narrower and narrower and barely looked like it would be wide enough for Kona Kai.  We decided not to chance it and turned around to head back out another way.  Reading the wagoneer guide later Roman noted that the channel can only be navigated at the highest tides and with extreme caution so it was a good thing we decided not to attempt it.


The rain had started to threaten at this point and Patti was reading the guidebook when we saw a picture of an amazing beach in the Serpent Group of islands just off to the south so we decided to head over and check them out for a lunch anchorage.  We reached the islands in a lashing wind and rainstorm and pulled into a small bay where we saw the most amazing sight; a white sand beach beyond a bed of thick kelp.  Lunch had to be quick as we were on a rising tide and we could see on the rocks around us that the water would soon rise to a level that would submerge this incredible beach so we wolfed down our shepherd’s pie and headed out in the skiff to the beach, just as the rain petered out and gave way to the sun. 


What a paradise!  White sand made from eons of crushed shells, turquoise and blue tidal pools, sun bleached logs, amazing rock formations and trees that looked like they were being lashed by gale force winds, standing still.  We spent a half hour exploring this beautiful place and then it was time to depart as we had to make it to Fish Egg inlet for our run south around Cape Caution tommorrow.  As is our custom we took a trace with us as we left in the form of a large plastic water bottle that appears to have come from Russia given the writing on the bottle. 


We also harvested some nori seaweed which made it into our stir fry tonight and a large piece of kelp which I plan to tie around my finger with Saran Wrap in keeping with Harriet’s advice on its healing properties.


The rest of the day socked in with our familiar rain and we are secure in a small bay behind Green Island protected from any waves from Fitz Hugh Sound for the night with one other sailboat for company.


Running time 6.5 hours, 273L used. 862L remaining in main tanks, 20 hours of range. 






















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