Day 9 - Waterfalls and Grizzlies

 We departed late from our anchorage to a sliver of sunshine on the horizon.  We’ve started to develop the habit of weighing anchor and eating breakfast as we go, with the waters so calm there’s no danger of the coffee pot flying around. I made the decision to go through Reid passage which was calmer as we could start to feel the pacific wells from milbank sound.  The navigation was tricky with some good tidal flow and lots of shoals and rocks but peaceful waters and great scenery. 

We made our way into Mathieson Channel and threaded through narrow Jackson Pass, with less than 20 feet clearance in some parts but a beautiful way to enter Finalyson Channel which was a short run to Klemtu.  The community is still closed to visitors due to the pandemic but we were given the ok to fill up on water.  We have enough fuel to make it to Rupert so water is all we needed.  

We continued up Tolmie channel in a light southeast wind and started counting waterfalls. Including the waterfall we are anchored in front of tonight, which has to the most incredible falls I have ever seen, we saw over 30 waterfalls up close as the channel was 100+ feet deep close to shore.  

The scenery is majestic with snow covered mountains on both sides of the channel, clouds clinging to their summits. The clouds gave way to sun about halfway up the channel and Roman and Patti served up a buffet lunch worthy of a cruise ship.  

Patti had read of this amazing anchorage called Khutze inlet and the forecast of a gale warning  Southeaster led us to change our plans for the night to seek a bay with shelter from the southeast, Khutze fit the spot perfectly. 

It’s a 5 mile run down Khutze to the estuary at the head, the inlet is 200-500 feet deep in most places except at the end and near the entry point off Graham Reach where an old landslide filled in the inlet to a depth of 20 feet. 

There is limited anchorage at the end of the inlet but you have to be careful of the old tank sunk in around 90 feet of water near the waterfall.  The area is under the jurisdiction of the two First Nations in the area and there was a kitsoo guardian watchkeeper anchored in the bay when we dropped the hook.

After Roman had dealt with the anchor he called out to us, I think there’s 2 grizzlies over there by the waterfall.  Sure enough there were two brown bears feeding on the sedge grass at the waters edge.  I quickly got the skiff ready and we headed out to get a good view of the two young bears (according to Brady they were sub-adults) who were curious of us but continued to graze.  They looked very skinny and emaciated but this was very early on in the season.

After a good look we returned to the boat and had a chat with Brady who explained the conservation area and the efforts the Kitsoo nation is making to preserve the habitat in the area and stop poaching.  Brady lives back at Echo Bay when he isn’t working as a guardian and lives beside Billy Proctor, always amazes me when co-incidences like this happen. 

Amazing anchorage under the most amazing waterfall, in a spot that normally sees 700-1000 boats a year and we are alone again.  We pinch ourselves.  Enjoy the bear shots.  They are incredible creatures.  We feel privileged to share their world.